chateau d'yquem 1979 (ld)

"considered the greatest white wine in the world, château d'yquem wine comes from a small hillside that benefits from an exceptional microclimate and terroir. the vineyard, which comprises no less than 150 plots of different soils, is pampered throughout the year: each vine receives an average of 50 treatments per year. selection is particularly rigorous at yquem: it is often said that a vine produces only one glass of wine. the grapes are harvested in a minimum of four passes (seven in 1997!) in order to harvest the grapes at perfect maturity, affected by noble rot. the estate also produces a dry white wine, y d'yquem, from grapes not affected by botrytis cinerea. in some years, the entire harvest is downgraded (no yquem was produced in 1910, 1915, 1930, 1951, 1952, 1964, 1972, 1974, 1992 and 2012). the wine is aged for up to 42 months in new barrels. this is an immensely attractive yquem, but there seems to be something missing. light golden, with the typical oaky, spicy, buttery and ripe yquem bouquet, it is only slightly more reserved than usual. on the palate, this full-bodied wine is intense and well-balanced, but is only a little short on the finish. the 1979 yquem is not as powerful or as rich as this wine can be in the best vintages. only 40% of the crop has been retained."